How to eat well in Alaçatı

Alaçatı's food is better than its reputation suggests, but the density of options on the main streets rewards a plan. Broadly there are three kinds of table here, and knowing which one you want solves most of the problem.

The first is the courtyard kitchen: a stone house with a vine, cold mezze brought to the table on a tray, and grills to follow. This is the everyday Aegean meal and the best value in the village. Lunch is usually walk-in; dinner in season is not.

The second is the composed dining room — a shorter menu, a chef with a point of view, wine from the peninsula and Urla, and a bill to match. Reserve these several days ahead in July and August, and earlier for a weekend.

The third is breakfast, which in Alaçatı is a full sitting rather than a coffee. Expect a table covered in small plates: local cheeses, tomatoes, eggs cooked with sucuk or in a pan with peppers, jams, olives, and bread that keeps arriving. Plan nothing demanding afterwards.

On ordering: the mezze counter is not a formality. Look at what is there, take two or three cold plates, then a hot one, then decide on fish or grill afterwards. Fish is sold by weight; ask the price per kilo before it is cooked, and ask what came in that day rather than what is on the menu.

On timing: the village eats late. A table at seven is easy and quiet; the room fills after nine. If you want the atmosphere, go late; if you want the kitchen at its most attentive, go early.

On wine: the peninsula and neighbouring Urla now produce seriously good bottles, and most kitchens list them. Ask for a local white with fish — it is usually the better pairing and the better price.