Eat

Eating in Çeşme divides roughly three ways. There is harbour seafood, best in Dalyan and along the north coast, where the order is mezze first and fish second. There is the Alaçatı dining room: stone walls, a courtyard, an Aegean menu built on herbs, olive oil and vegetables. And there is the everyday layer — bakeries, breakfast tables, grill kitchens near the beaches — which is where most of the peninsula eats most of the time.

Dinner starts late, usually after nine, and in July and August a reservation is not optional at the better tables. Lunch is more forgiving and often better value by the water.