Ildır

Ildır sits on the northern coast, on a bay broken up by small islands, beside the remains of ancient Erythrai. Nothing here moves quickly: fishing boats, a few waterfront kitchens, olive groves and a landscape that stays open.

The swimming is from rock and small beaches rather than long sand, and the pleasure is the light on the islets in the late afternoon. It is the closest the peninsula comes to a village summer.

It suits travellers who want quiet, boats and long lunches, and who do not mind driving twenty-five minutes for a busier evening.